1959-D RPM Roosevelt 10C

[Conan62]

Good afternoon, I was going through some 1959-D Roosevelt dimes that I had put aside to examine for RPM. I decided to post two, I could use some help. The first I am not able to decide if this is a 1959-D RPM-003 stage C. It does have the die chip on the nose. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you for taking the time to view this coin.

[MintErrors]

In my opinion, for this to be rpm-003 it would need the lesser mintmark showing in the center of the stronger mintmark. From varietyvista site, it looks like thevupper serif of the D is split and a little wider than it should be, Vs a normal coin.

The right side or east of the mintmark looks like some extreme mechanical damage got ahold of this coin. I can see three step like parts, each lower than the other. That is normally an indication of worthless doubling.

Please note, that you can see similar markers. It's best to look for the rpm first, then see of there are any markers to support the rpm find.

[Conan62]

Thanks, Gary, I wish I could post all eight coins they are all different strikes. My first thought when I view this coin several weeks ago was machine damage. Then I found the die chips on the nose that matched VV, I thought I should let the experts look at it. I was under the impression that pre-1989 the machines did not play a part in the process of marking the mint. I’ve been recalled that you had previously explained to me that there is a type of layout that is put down by the machine that tells the worker where to put the mint mark. I assumed there would be two layers (one very thin below the mint mark) when I saw three I started to wonder. Either way I learned today. I’ll be back at it tomorrow. What you explained confirms the majority of the coins, I may post one more that has a different type of strike just to learn how that happens. Thanks again!

[MintErrors]

The mint mark is usually struck once on the working die. IF the mint worker hit it too light, did a glancing blow or other mistake, and the mintmark was not complete, that is when they would do another mintmark over the light one.

They typically do not tap an impression on the working die to check a position. They just punch it into the working die and hope for the best. They used to use a viewfinder, almost like a welders mask that had high magnification. They could then see if they could position the steel punch needed to go to cover up their mistake. Some times they were spot on. Most times they were slightly off. allowing that separation making it a repunched mint mark.

Mintmarks on Lincoln cents are usually done in the flat field below the date. That's where the mint wants them. Now for the rest of the denominations, I do not have the precise location for them.

[MintErrors]

Another thing I mentioned was overlays, and that was directed towards the photographs. You place one photo on top of another . With proper software, you can make one photo almost sheer. Then with some back ground design in view. You then line up the photos... which have to be the same pixel size. With the designs lined up, you can then see if the mint marks land on top of each other. If I can find some time, I will dig out two rpms, both the same RPM number and do an overlay so you see what I mean.

[MintErrors]

Conan62

Here is a basic concept of the PHOTO overlays many collectors do to verify if it is the same RPM.

You take two photos, one of your coin, and the other, which should not be copy written.
They have to be exactly the same size, but they can be slightly off in the actual photo, as long as the devices (numbers, buildings, letters) are the same size.
Then, a software like paint dot net can be used.
The first photo you open can be left alone.
You open a second photo under the layers=> add from file.
That will allow one photo to be placed on top of the other.
Then under layers you can change the properties of that layer for the 2nd photo
I use the slide bar to make the second photo sheer so it makes it easier to line up both photos.

here is an idea of the two photos one normal and one sheer. they are NOT lined up yet.

overlay-coin-difference.jpg

Now all one has to do is slide the #2 photo over the top of #1.
IF all of the numbers and the mintmark are on top of each other then this should be a good match

overlay-coin-finish.jpg

Its easy to do, my example uses a reliable free version of paint dot net.