1971-D DDR Eisenhower Dollar

[ilikeikes]

I have a handful of 1971-D Clad IKES with multiple doubling--in the letters, stars, eagle back, and more--I was told these are mechanical and not valuable--anyone care to comment please do--I always thought ANY doubling was a double die, I am not familiar with the different types of doubling, called MECHANICAL SHELF DOUBLING---Jeez, i though i could retire on these coins, i guess not???

[russellhome]

Yes - it is mechanical doubling (MD) - and not a doubled die reverse (DDR). Basically - what you see as doubling on the coin occured during the strike and is fairly common. Extreme examples of MD can add some value - but light to moderate examples of MD do not add value.

On a doubled die - the doubling occured when the working die was made - and the doubled elements will appear on every coin struck. Some key varieties are worth big bucks - and many only a few bucks.

Trust me, we've all been where you are. This was my first 'big' discovery - a 1963 Proof Dime ...



I was sure I had a great DDR. And I had to hear from at least 4 or 5 more experienced hobbyists that it was mechanical doubling before I'd believe them.

[wavysteps]

As Russel home has pointed out, it is mechanical doubling. As to the worth, you will find those who believe that the coin has a premium and those who believe it does not.

BJ Neff

[JamesWiles]

I fall into the camp that says they have no premium value. That does not mean you shouldn't collect them. You can assemble a collection of extremely strong MDD fairly easily. MDD is extremely common even in the strong examples, espec. from 1964 onward. It just means that you should not expect to sell them for a premium. Premium value implies that the buyer knows exactly what he is buying. Precious few people with a knowledge of the difference between MDD and true doubled dies will pay more than normal numismatic value for an MDD coin and even they will not pay more than $1.00 or so extra for an example. There are a few extremists who go as far as subtracting value from MDD coins. While I don't go that far, I prefer my coins not to have MDD when at all possible. However, in variety collecting the principle of "beggers can't be choosers" often applies. Sometimes we have to take whatever comes along, because it will be along time before a better example happens our way.

[russellhome]

When I find a coin with very bold mechanical doubing or extreme die deterioration - I do keep it. But that stash is getting pretty large - so my standards for 'bold' and 'extreme' have raised in recent months. Some of these coins are pretty cool looking - common or not. That is why I keep them. But I think it would have to be more extreme than anything I've yet found for me to consider buying one for a premium. The MD examples in Mike Diamonds article (see link below) are coins I'd pay a premium for.

http://www.minterrornews.com/news-1-30-07-doubling.html

At any given time, there are dozens of 'error' coins listed on eBay that are nothing more than MD. Some are wrongly listed as DDs, some described genericly as 'with doubling', and some honestly listed as MD. Most examples don't sell or sell for little premium. But I've seen the 1969 S 1c with bold MD sell for $20 to $50 many times on eBay. We all know that such MD is fairly common on the 1969 S 1c - I have several similar examples of these in my 'stash'. So why do these sell for such a premium - even if correctly described as MD? Dr. Wiles makes a valid point. Most of these buyers do not even know that there are different kinds of doubling and informing them that the doubling is MD really does not make any difference to them. They think they are getting something rare and valuable. So the premium earned for these, IMO - is a dishonest one.

If I ever attempt to sell any examples from my 'MD/DDD stash' I will probably sell them in lots as 'educational pieces' - and provide more information on the subject than the buyer really wants to know. It is clear that some eBay sellers operate under the premise of 'let the buyer beware'. But I could not in good conscience sell an MD coin without clearly articulating the differences to potential buyers.

And finally -- in cases of light to moderate MD - I do consider it damage and less attractive. Case in point... When a design comes out that I like, I often order 3 or 4 examples a commemorative coin from the US mint. I keep the one I like best and sell the others. MD is one factor for getting put in the 'to get rid of' pile. And in some cases, not a single coin in my order is MD free.

[ilikeikes]

IKE Threads-Thank You

Thanks to all who contributed to my query on the doubling of my IKES--I appreciate it--this is quite an educated group in here--the best of the best offering their input.
As a side note, for the week, between cherry picking a coin shop, and an ebay hoard of IKES, I came up with 1, Friendly Eagle Variety, 1, 1971-D Clad Pegleg, and 5 Talon Heads, 2 with Monster taloning. I am investigating a few theries on my IKES: looking at the reeded edges of all my coins, and will publish my results when finished, I am concentrating on a theory of a possible WIDE RIM Variant exists, as well as a CLOSE AM Variant Theory,(pic enclosed--only 1 found so far) like the 1999 & 2000 Lincoln Cents, a possible Type III "Island" Variant, and, other Contrarian aspects of this much-maligned coin.
Calvin Goddard
Sebastopol, CA