High Resolution photography for Die Varieties

[Ray Parkhurst]

Discussion copied from another topic in order to maintain topic focus

The pics I am most proud of are the High Resolution ones I post on EasyZoom. I've had a goal for many years to be able to present single images of the obverse and reverse of a coin with enough resolution to see all the die markers clearly, and I finally achieved that goal a couple years ago with a combination of high resolution camera, super-resolution lens, focus stacking, and panorama stitching. Here's an example showing a Very Early Die State RPM-015 LWC:

https://easyzoom.com/image/343176/album/0/4?mode=manage

[Ray Parkhurst]

After picking up my jaw off the floor because of the best zoomed in picture I have ever seen... I have a roll of UNC 1954 S Lincoln Cents to go through and look for the details I need to see for this RPM. Since the new microscope camera I started using is a great help seeing doubling, I can appreciate the more minor doubled dies. I never got into the RPM's but now look forward to looking. If I can ask What high resolution camera and super resolution lens? Does EasyZoom have a course on focus stacking and stitching? Thanks Ray for stirring the pot!
Steve

After many years of study and experimentation, I ended up with the Sony A7Rm4, which has a 61MP FF sensor and excellent jpg engine. It is capable of doing pixel-shifting as well, but I don't use that process with my photos as the software over-sharpens the image.

For the lens, I knew for a long time that the Nikon Printing-Nikkors were the world's best macro lenses, but did not have a camera or workflow that would take best advantage of them. Once I got the A7Rm4, the workflow became "obvious"... stack and stitch a 2-image panorama. I use a 95mm Printing-Nikkor mounted in reverse and set for ~1.7:1 magnification. I shoot stacked images (typically 36 images) of the top and bottom halves of the coin, filling the sensor ~90% horizontally, then stitching them together into a square-ish image. The image is then published on EasyZoom after cropping and processing.

EasyZoom is just a hosting site AFAIK. I learned the stacking and stitching processes the hard way, through many discussions on the Photomacrograpy.net forum, and lots of experimentation and mistakes.

[OneCent]

That is a nice setup for sure and all of your efforts have paid off in self gratificaction and works of art for others to enjoy. I have improved my pictures with an upgrade to 3MP Microscope camera and have taken some glare out of the lighting with Teflon tape over the LED's. I'm still getting glare but will try more plumbers tape.The camera uses Swift Imaging 3.0 software to take the photo. I see it has a stiching function but I am not savy on that. I am learning to use IfanView to view and edit pictures on my computer and merging 2-4 pictures. It looks like a lot to learn. I will eventually look into the $400 setup I hear you referenced.
Thanks for the post!

[MintErrors]

. I have improved my pictures with an upgrade to 3MP Microscope camera and have taken some glare out of the lighting with Teflon tape over the LED's. I'm still getting glare but will try more plumbers tape.

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I use some different cloth bought from a local fabric shop. They are all white, but varying degrees of thickness, sheer. It subdued the lighting pretty well and glare is cut down considerably in most of my photos. Since I own an AMSCOPE microscope, I simply have enough fabric to drape over the scope minus the eye pieces, if I need them. I use two desk top style lamps that are mobile enough to get the job done well.

A few years ago I upgraded to a 14mp microscope camera and a year later, a 16mp microscope camera. The photos can be amazing. Should I mess around abit and do some 80x magnification close ups of the variety, the clarity and balance is there, but the focal area is sort limited. I don't care to stack photos or spend a ton of time on one photo. Most are pleasing enough to get the educational point of view across, and at a level which people do not seem to be intimidated.

Full obverse and reverse shots are taken with my phone. I want to upgrade the phone to the S23, which sports a 100 megapixel camera. Shortly, I will have much more free time to concentrate on the hobby. I cannot wait.

[Ray Parkhurst]

...all of your efforts have paid off in self gratificaction and works of art...

Hmm, it seems that I failed in my endeavors if all I got was self gratification and works of art.

[OneCent]

Thanks for more tips MintErrors, my girls have plenty of fabric to try. I have The Amscope 20x40x80x and have been using the defaults for white balance, brightness etc but trying other settings. Is there a certain setting you use for silver coins verses copper and gold?

[OneCent]

Hmm, it seems that I failed in my endeavors if all I got was self gratification and works of art.

I appreciate your works of art so I would think it must be part of your business then?

[Ray Parkhurst]

I appreciate your works of art so I would think it must be part of your business then?

The intent of my Hi-Res photos is neither business nor art, but the ability to view all the details of a coin in a single image for variety documentation and attribution. I've always been dissatisfied with the published photos showing variety pickup points and markers. So many times I've found critical markers that are not documented, and thus can't be used for attribution and in fact call into question any attributions made. By being able to see the entire coin, rather than just a few specific shots, all markers are available for attribution by scanning to any desired view of the coin.

At one point I had interest in shooting all the major varieties (then moving to top-100's, then on to more minor ones) and creating a photo database, but there are already too many such databases online. Perhaps someday I'll go for it if I get overly frustrated with the existing resources.

[OneCent]

Hello Ray,
Registry set coins and graded coins seem to have this type of photo on PCGS, where you can zoom in. I am not sure if they use a similar Hi-Res approach. The Hi-res photos are a great idea for attributions. I have mentioned what I have thought to be die markers on my submissions and sometimes not included so I see what you mean. Some listed die markers are very hard to see Pictures like this would be cool to document progressions of cuds,shattered dies,and other larger breaks like the 2019 Washington Quarter Earring that started as a circular die crack in the exact center of the obverse. This one I contacted Mike Diamond about and was described in "COIN WORLD" Page 42 | July 8, 2019. Hi-Res pics weren't used but would be nice to see as he described the cracks in detail. This quarter is listed on cuds-on-coins as an interior die break. I used the pics below

[MintErrors]

Thanks for more tips MintErrors, my girls have plenty of fabric to try. I have The Amscope 20x40x80x and have been using the defaults for white balance, brightness etc but trying other settings. Is there a certain setting you use for silver coins verses copper and gold?

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I don't change much. With the amscope microscope software, I simply change the brightness and gamma levels. Lighting is vital, but I tend to use several lights in order to elimination shadows and doubt. My gamma and brightness are always set below 50%. Gamma is usually between 10 to 25 percent. If I had to guess on average brightness used, I would have to say it's averaging between 30 and 50 percent. Most of the other settings are left at defaults.

One thing I do religiously is ensure my monitors that I use to view the coin before taking photos is set at defaults. They are used only for taking photos of coins, so the default level, or about 50% or average contrast and brightness. This way, the end result I am seeing should be pleasing for anyone, whether they use higher or lower settings on their monitors, phones or tablets.

I do have two microscope and microscope camera setups. Neither is specific to acoin type. I seen a tour group go through heritage auctions photo area, and they used a different station for each metal type. There were a total of about 20 to 25 stations. It makes sense, if you have the funds to do so.

But photography of coins is much more than the type of metal. Each coin is slightly different. For copper, you have the browns, red-browns and reds. For silver you have the blast whites and toned coins. It takes time, a lot of minor adjustments and a ton of patience in order to produce outstanding results for the type of equipment being used.

[Ray Parkhurst]

I always recommend to folks to adjust their camera settings to the most neutral possible, and leave them alone. No sharpening, no extra saturation, manual white balance, lowest contrast. This gives best "raw material" to work with. It's sort of like shooting "Raw", but I don't recommend doing that. Then you can adjust the final image later to match the look of each coin as needed.

[OneCent]

Thanks guys! I was able to calibrate my display using Windows 10 settings. My Gamma setting was way off. I will link the website I used. It was an easy walk through and seems better. Can't wait to upgrade!

[OneCent]

Hello Ray,
Registry set coins and graded coins seem to have this type of photo on PCGS, where you can zoom in. I am not sure if they use a similar Hi-Res approach. The Hi-res photos are a great idea for attributions. I have mentioned what I have thought to be die markers on my submissions and sometimes not included so I see what you mean. Some listed die markers are very hard to see Pictures like this would be cool to document progressions of cuds,shattered dies,and other larger breaks like the 2019 Washington Quarter Earring that started as a circular die crack in the exact center of the obverse. This one I contacted Mike Diamond about and was described in "COIN WORLD" Page 42 | July 8, 2019. Hi-Res pics weren't used but would be nice to see as he described the cracks in detail. This quarter is listed on cuds-on-coins as an interior die break. I used the pics below

Hey Ray,
You nailed it with the animation of the BIE Cents on macrocoins.com! I am sure the rest of the site will also be exceptional!

[N-7382]

Beautiful work but seems an incredibly expensive set-up. I have gone through many different setups, none near that costly and now just use the S23. Lighting is all important and I'll take the Teflon tape idea and try it. Thanks for that.

[Ray Parkhurst]

Beautiful work but seems an incredibly expensive set-up. I have gone through many different setups, none near that costly and now just use the S23. Lighting is all important and I'll take the Teflon tape idea and try it. Thanks for that.

I've never seen an acceptable shot of a die variety that was taken with any type of cellphone. Do you have any examples to share?