1930uspenny CUDS

[traps7]

Die clash around eyes, Lips have doubling with a holder in-between lips; Liberty has doubling... Not sure how it happens,..Traps7

[MintErrors]

In my opinion, the area north east of the date on the rim is damage. The reverse is almost in the exact same spot. The area on the reverse is shinier than the rest of the coin, to me it means that was done outside the mint. Just take a look at the coins' patina and notice areas that are different.

This coin is well circulated and has damage on the field. I personally do not see any clash. I cannot tell from the photos if LIBERTY is smashed, Doubled or normal. With wear the coin can look doubled, more flat and wide.

[traps7]

Thanx Gary,..I see my pictures always seem out of focus. I am using I Phone app, I am looking to get a better magnifier with a camera hoping to get clear pics. All my coins have been in storage for 45years and have been exposed to dampness and some have oxidized turn green. I guess these coins have little value because of grim and wear which reason for not grading coins. I have some 1969, 1955, 1944, and others that are in demand but are dirty,worn or dark brown in colour. I hope to get better pics to share, Thanx

[MintErrors]

Thanx Gary,..I see my pictures always seem out of focus. I am using I Phone app, I am looking to get a better magnifier with a camera hoping to get clear pics. All my coins have been in storage for 45years and have been exposed to dampness and some have oxidized turn green. I guess these coins have little value because of grim and wear which reason for not grading coins. I have some 1969, 1955, 1944, and others that are in demand but are dirty,worn or dark brown in colour. I hope to get better pics to share, Thanx

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As for photo taking, I can suggest that photos be taken as follows:

IF you are using a phone:

Find a box, about 6x6 or 8x8.
Place the box on the table.
Place the coin on the table, close to the base of the box.
Place the phone on top of the box and turn on the camera app.
Carefully slide the phone toward the edge so the camera can see the coin.
Adjust the coin closer if need be.
You can zoom in, but do not make the photo blurry at all.
Make sure there is no glare on the coin, use a lamp vice flash from the phone.
With the phone on the top of the box, you can stabilize the phone with one hand.
Gently tap the shutter to take a photo.

In the text area where you add a post, just to the top left , is a camera icon.
That will toggle on/off the upload buttons.

Photos are best saved as JPG.
The photos on this website have to be less than 2mb each.
You should be able to upload 8 photos per post.
If more photos are needed, you can reply to your post and add more photos.

If you have a photo editing app on the phone, if need be, crop most of the background out of the photo.
You should be able to draw a box around the coin.
From there use the cropping tool to remove any unnecessary background.
The cropping tool can look like a bent square.

If you find a good amount of winners in your collection that have that green verdigris on them and are in high grade, you may be able to have them conserved at a 3rd party grading service. Places like ANACS charge for a full sheet submission and at their discretion, may conserve the coins before grading and slabbing if the action would be potentially beneficial.

The "Brown" designation is probably the most reliable in price. In my opinion, Red is over priced since many will end up red brown or brown in time anyway. Sometimes its easier to take a photo of a brown specimen than it is to take one that is shiny and red.... less glare on the brown's.

[traps7]

Thanx. Gary,.