PC Microscopes

[JC Stevens]

I知 looking to upgrade my PC Microscope for taking pictures of my Mint Error/Variety coins. I知 looking for some ideas and comments on what to upgrade to.

The scope I use now is a DINO Model AM211. While a good starter scope I need to move forward. American Scope has some models for coin collectors. Are any of you using one of these or another brand?

Should I look at fixed power coin microscopes or zoom?

What is best a boom, articulating arm, or stand? Do I need a X-Y Gliding Table?

Should I use a ring light or 144 LED or something in between?

Should the camera be 1.3 M or 10M?

[DylanGrace]

I wish someone would reply to this -- I am also in need of something new.

[numismanut]

I can't say that I have the greatest first hand experience with PC microscope, but I'll try and help. I currently have some cheap $40 microscope which does a decent job, but I shouldn't have expected much quality when I bought it anyway. On to my opinions:

I think a zoom is necessary when switching between different coins, but there are probably ways to make a fixed power work fine. The control over the scope real depends on what you prefer. I think any will work, but it's a matter of what you like best. In my experience the LED light on the scope usually aren't what you want to use for lighting the coin you image. Preferably you could set up a nice external lighting display. In general, the greater the number of M (megapixels) the clearer the image will be. Hope that helps a bit.

[JC Stevens]

I can't say that I have the greatest first hand experience with PC microscope, but I'll try and help. I currently have some cheap $40 microscope which does a decent job, but I shouldn't have expected much quality when I bought it anyway. On to my opinions:

I think a zoom is necessary when switching between different coins, but there are probably ways to make a fixed power work fine. The control over the scope real depends on what you prefer. I think any will work, but it's a matter of what you like best. In my experience the LED light on the scope usually aren't what you want to use for lighting the coin you image. Preferably you could set up a nice external lighting display. In general, the greater the number of M (megapixels) the clearer the image will be. Hope that helps a bit.

Thanks, The LED light has good and bad points. Bad for the correct color on the coin. But good to show depth on a die crack etc. I'm still looking!!! I've been to a few coin show and not a single dealer had a scope for sale or demo.

I'm still looking for comment from scope users. But this site sure has been slow for comments. Come on scope users!!! Speak UP!!!

[numismanut]

You're right, I've seen various aspects of the LEDs. I think the most important thing is a clear image, and then specific lighting comes afterward. I personally haven't seen scopes for sale in places besides online, so I would look for other online review sources. Of course, if you're specifically looking at EV coins, this would be the place to try to get advice.

[Merlin8971]

I am going to claim to be an expert on microscopes (by volume not acumen). I have a variable 400 to 2000 power binocular microscope w/computer hookup, and it is nice, but lighting is a real issue I have a 200 power computer camera zoom microscope with LED lights around the lens. But I also have (4) 45 power hand held microscopes with LED lights in them, (2) 60 power hand held microscopes with LED and black light. I have (1) LED light 40 power loupe.

I also have a 10 power cap and utilize a prescription pair of glasses with the cap when looking at coins under a Tungsten light.

After finding about 3,000 error coins, here is my experience. I do not use the 400/2000 ppower microscope unless I am trying to take stills of "split serifs" and the like. The 200 power gives a fair amount of detail and I do take photos of pennies mostly with it. I use a Nikon "cool Pix" camera for almost all other photos. It has a fairly nice close-up feature that usually works well. I utilize "warmer lights" for the camera.

I find with "silvery" metal coins it does not matter "as much" about the type of lighting, but the angle of the lighting to show features like die clashes Warmer lighting tends to give false colors on "silvery" coins. I found I can use either LED lighting or warmer lighting on pennies. I find warmer lighting works well with "golden red" pennies and the LED tends to work better on brown and dark pennies. Again, I emphasize the angle of the lighting is still most important to get the best photos. A good example is a head on shot of a deep cameo mirror proof...will produce one's own image on the coin. Increasing the angle 5 to 10 degrees will eliminate that.

I have also found that the hand held microscopes have a very bright LED and they only become more comfortable to my eyes when the batteries are about half used. It is not as blindingly bright then. of course, They do very well for showing detail but again that tends to be a subjective thing. Example being if I am looking at a 1980-P Lincoln for a DDO, I use the 60 power hand held. If I am looking at a 1996 or 2000 Lincoln penny for a misaligned clash of "ST" of Trust and "URIBUS" respectively I use the 40 or 45 power because the 60 power is too strong. I do not take photos with those.

I would suggest aquiring a "How to" photography book that focuses on lighting. I know the older "film" camera photography books are quite good and in depth on these various subjects that carry over to coin collecting. But they usually go into different kinds of light so-called "warm light and cool or cold light" and color saturation and color shifting.

Hope this is helpful in your quest.

[DylanGrace]

That was very informative, and concise. What would help is some samples of the individual points made. My Veho Discovery vms-001 works well for processing many coins, as long as I view at an incline, otherwise the LED's splash way too much glare over the coins. The camera I use is a Canon T1i, but I have not found the correct lighting to take true color photographs of clad/silver coins. I agree with you that the small cents photograph well under warm lighting.
I realize posting is cumbersome, but your knowledge on this subject is sorely needed. Again, thank you for all your time and efforts.

[atrox001]

When taking pictures of die varieties, I shoot them through a microscope...what you see under the scope is the photo you get. My scope is an older American Optical .7 to 30X with 10X eye pieces giving me around 10X to 40X zoom. This scope was used in a science lab as a dissecting scope. I think they are also used for viewing micro chips. They can be found on EBay for $150 to $250 used. I use an auxiliary halogen desk lamp for a light source, covering the light with a piece of white cloth to remove some of the glare. I think the LED lights are terrible, way too much glare and brightness, especially when taking a picture of a proof, or anything shinny, the florescent rings are even worse. My system is very basic, I just have to focus on the coin under the scope, adjust the light closer or farther away from the coin, remove an eyepiece and shoot through the scope.

Larry Nienaber

[DylanGrace]

Very well done, thank you for taking this time and the great pictures of your set-up...and nice DDO.

[JC Stevens]

Thanks everyone, for some reason I did not get an email notification that someone had posted a reply to this post.

Now I have to research the info. So I'm still looking.

In regards to lighting, yes it is the key. I've been playing with a PC Program called GIMP (2.6.11) "new vers is on the WEB site but I haven't uploaded it yet" its a GNU Image Manipulation Program. It's a free down load and is supported very well by the user group & development team. I've been able to correct some of the lighting issues on my files using this program.

I started using GIMP to crop and adjust the images I take of my coins before I print them out for my albums. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post a link to their WEB site so I didn't. But if you Google it you can get info on it.

Thanks everyone!!
2Old

[wavysteps]

Just to add my two cents worth. I have taken over 30,000 images through the binocular scope that I have. You can take a peek at Traildies.com, MADdieclashes.com and to some extent Error-ref.com and see the work that I have accomplished.
I use a binocular microscope, 7.5 X to 35 X zoom, a goose neck desk lamp with a "save energy" bulb. My camera is a CANNON A720. My Photoshop, The most important, part is Adobe 7.
With this system you can do wonders and it does not cost an arm and a leg.

BJ Neff

[JC Stevens]

Thanks for the information BJ. The images on Traildies.com, MADdieclashes.com are just what I知 looking to get out of a new set up. You did a great job!!
Right now I知 using a Dino-Lite Digital Microscope and the image is projected on my computer screen, a feature which I really like. When I get the image I want I just save the file and edit it with GIMP. This scope is a good starter scope but I want to improve my images and get the quality you get with your set up.
I知 looking at a Binocular Stereo Zoom Microscope 7x~45x with Dual Lights. What I haven稚 worked out is to add a DCM130 Digital Camera for Microscopes or use my Kodak P850 Camera. Issues I知 working out are will the DCM130 fit the eyetube on the microscope. If I use the Kodak I値l need a Microscope digital camera adapter for the Kodak P850. If I use my P850 I値l have to move the file to the PC. Soon I hope to be making images as good as yours.

2Old

[wavysteps]

Thank you 2Old.

BJ

[JC Stevens]

With everyone痴 help I now have a new scope ( a Zoom 3.5x~45x Trinocular Stereo Microscope w Dual Light). My first try with a USB 9MP camera didn't work out very well as I had problems focusing on the coin. For now I am using my Kodak SLR P850 camera with an attachment kit for the microscope.

If I can figure out the focusing and lighting issues I'll be all set.

That's a "BIG IF". I'm finding out that lighting and focusing can be as much as a challenge as hunting for varieties. I can only hope that my images will one day look as good as those of BJ Neff, John Wexler, Ken Potter, Larry Nienaber and many others.

[wavysteps]

Lighting and focusing are problems. I suggest using a goose neck desk lamp with one of those energy saving bulbs (40 to 60 Watts) with a piece of opaque plastic over the opening. Make sure that the bulb still has enough air around it to stay comparatively cool. The plastic acts as a diffuser for the light source.

One other item that you have not mentioned is a good photo shop program. That is an essential need for good images.

BJ Neff