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1971 P, doubling or shelving?

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  • MIMS.2Cents
    erra,erra,Error
    • Feb 2024
    • 100

    1971 P, doubling or shelving?

    85828DB5-73C2-4CE0-A64A-17578DB4AF6C.jpeg 1971 P, double or shelving?
    Subject is 1971 sms “P”
    obverse date first “1” is most noticeable
    device eye may be just a push but at angles looks like doubled eye
    legend and motto shows cc push but may just be lose collar,
    Rev is the same but Device memorial mid,top has me back and forth
    “O” one most pronounced
    There is some test of time failure of the plastic vs coin and can see started taking effect on the subject hence hard for “My” determination
    FF0EC4D3-459F-42EB-9163-8E23F4CCB917.jpeg
    Attached Files
  • MintErrors
    Minterrors.org
    • Jun 2015
    • 3554

    #4
    in my opinion, and from the photos presented this does look like it's lower, shelf or step like. The nose area looks like a light form of push doubling.

    https://www.error-ref.com/push-doubling/

    The letters look thinner. Normally you won't see a doubled die on the obverse and reverse - those working dies are made at different times. Yes, there have been a few years when there were a DDO and DDR present on select working dies, but again pretty scarce.

    The die stage, or age of the die does play into this. The more worn and loose it becomes, the higher the probability there is associated mechanical worthless damage. This damage tends to show from one general direction, but that is not always the case.

    It appears you took the photos from some sort of holder. Cameras tend to auto-focus on the plastic or film and not on the coin itself.

    If the photos are taken with the phone in hand, then I suggest:

    Find a box, about 6x6 or 8x8.
    Place the box on the table.
    Place the coin on the table, close to the base of the box.
    Place the phone on top of the box and turn on the camera app.
    Carefully slide the phone toward the edge so the camera can see the coin.
    Adjust the coin closer if need be.
    You can zoom in, but do not make the photo blurry at all.
    Make sure there is no glare on the coin, use a lamp vice flash from the phone.
    Withe the phone on the top of the box, you can stabilize the phone with one hand.
    Gently tap the shutter to take a photo.

    In the text area where you add a post, just to the top left , is a camera icon.
    That will toggle on/off the upload buttons.

    Photos are best saved as JPG.
    The photos on this website have to be less than 2mb each.
    You should be able to upload 8 photos per post.
    If more photos are needed, you can reply to your post and add more photos.

    If you have a photo editing app on the phone, if need be, crop most of the background out of the photo.
    You should be able to draw a box around the coin.
    From there use the cropping tool to remove any unnecessary background.
    The cropping tool can look like a bent square.

    Last edited by MintErrors; 03-14-2024, 10:14 AM.
    Gary Kozera
    Website: https://MintErrors.org

    Comment

    • MIMS.2Cents
      erra,erra,Error
      • Feb 2024
      • 100

      #5
      Originally posted by MintErrors View Post
      in my opinion, and from the photos presented this does look like it's lower, shelf or step like. The nose area looks like a light form of push doubling.

      https://www.error-ref.com/push-doubling/

      The letters look thinner. Normally you won't see a doubled die on the obverse and reverse - those working dies are made at different times. Yes, there have been a few years when there were a DDO and DDR present on select working dies, but again pretty scarce.

      The die stage, or age of the die does play into this. The more worn and loose it becomes, the higher the probability there is associated mechanical worthless damage. This damage tends to show from one general direction, but that is not always the case.

      It appears you took the photos from some sort of holder. Cameras tend to auto-focus on the plastic or film and not on the coin itself.

      If the photos are taken with the phone in hand, then I suggest:

      Find a box, about 6x6 or 8x8.
      Place the box on the table.
      Place the coin on the table, close to the base of the box.
      Place the phone on top of the box and turn on the camera app.
      Carefully slide the phone toward the edge so the camera can see the coin.
      Adjust the coin closer if need be.
      You can zoom in, but do not make the photo blurry at all.
      Make sure there is no glare on the coin, use a lamp vice flash from the phone.
      Withe the phone on the top of the box, you can stabilize the phone with one hand.
      Gently tap the shutter to take a photo.

      In the text area where you add a post, just to the top left , is a camera icon.
      That will toggle on/off the upload buttons.

      Photos are best saved as JPG.
      The photos on this website have to be less than 2mb each.
      You should be able to upload 8 photos per post.
      If more photos are needed, you can reply to your post and add more photos.

      If you have a photo editing app on the phone, if need be, crop most of the background out of the photo.
      You should be able to draw a box around the coin.
      From there use the cropping tool to remove any unnecessary background.
      The cropping tool can look like a bent square.

      Thank You,
      My thoughts as well, the first one in the date had me mostly questioning the subject,
      Ive been working on that just a lot of rushing, happy wife, happy life,
      I have a few new mint sets I received, like conditions I did find as you suggested placing on a box, love that cause I do just that with old Kleenex box

      Thank you again and for the other tips I’m going to try to work on the size and shutter speed vs lighting for future

      Comment

      • MintErrors
        Minterrors.org
        • Jun 2015
        • 3554

        #6
        The 1971 date on some (if not all) working dies is questionable. There are years like 1960D small date that exhibits tripling on the date. It appears to be master hub doubling, which means there are literally hundreds of thousands or more of this type out there, rendering it plentiful and non-valuable.

        It's the same with 1972 from Philadelphia. With all the cents made in 1972, literally 1.5 Billion coins, over 50% of them suffer from the master hub doubling, rendering them plentiful and non-valuable as well.

        https://www.lincolncentforum.com/197...-die-doubling/
        Gary Kozera
        Website: https://MintErrors.org

        Comment

        • MIMS.2Cents
          erra,erra,Error
          • Feb 2024
          • 100

          #7
          Originally posted by MintErrors View Post
          The 1971 date on some (if not all) working dies is questionable. There are years like 1960D small date that exhibits tripling on the date. It appears to be master hub doubling, which means there are literally hundreds of thousands or more of this type out there, rendering it plentiful and non-valuable.

          It's the same with 1972 from Philadelphia. With all the cents made in 1972, literally 1.5 Billion coins, over 50% of them suffer from the master hub doubling, rendering them plentiful and non-valuable as well.

          https://www.lincolncentforum.com/197...-die-doubling/
          That Makes Cents,
          too common, I’ll keep searching

          Comment

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