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Struck through 1942 Mercury Dime

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  • Mercergrl2
    • Feb 2025
    • 24

    Struck through 1942 Mercury Dime

    I’m learning but this looks like a possible strike through. It looks like a staple to me but there’s barely any indentation. IMG_4626.jpg
  • MintErrors
    Minterrors.org
    • Jun 2015
    • 3652

    #2
    Originally posted by Mercergrl2 View Post
    I’m learning but this looks like a possible strike through. It looks like a staple to me but there’s barely any indentation.


    The forum ate my original reply to this.

    It looks like the issue started near the "I" in LIBERTY and travels south almost to the rim, ending near the "W" in WE.

    I believe its either:
    A scape of some sort.
    It could also be a slight staining, if it has some other color vice just dirt.

    It could be a very light lamination, but the look appears to be wrong to me. BUT, it does look the same across the "I" as it does landing on the flat field of the coin. If it looks almost like a peeling than scrape, it could be a lamination error. This does happen with silver coins some and more common on copper coins.

    It looks too light and straight to be a struck through grease or debris in my opinion.

    Circulated coins can be a challenge to give a good assessment. Its the wear, and endless possibilities of something happening outside the mint whether intentional or unintentional by some one else.

    I am currently on a tablet. I can't zoom in close enough to determine what this is, so I only can offer a few possibilities.

    I dont like being picky, but in the end I am always trying to help.

    The photo appears to have too much light, giving it that ghostly look.
    It can affect the clarity of the photo. When I see this when I am taking photos, I have to lower the light a tad. Otherwise, if I move the white sheer fabric just a touch, it can alter the photo or throw it out of focus.

    Lighting can be the number one pain to master in photography of coins. I ended up getting an AMSCOPE microscope years ago which has software that comes with the microscope camera. This offers settings to change the lighting before I take the photo to get as close to what I see under the scope.

    I will say your photos are better than some on here. I personally appreciate that. It makes offering my opinion easier.
    Last edited by MintErrors; 03-22-2025, 01:58 AM.
    Gary Kozera
    Website: https://MintErrors.org

    Comment

    • occnumis2021
      NumisScholar
      • May 2021
      • 1462

      #3
      Originally posted by MintErrors View Post


      The forum ate my original reply to this..
      are the restore/discard options not in place when a post isn't submitted but the page has been reloaded?

      some forum features have been changed/removed and i haven't checked if this one is still in place.

      coinfacts.com - conecaonline.info - board.conecaonline.org/forum/numismatic-site-links - briansvarietycoins.com - coppercoins.com - cuds-on-coins.com - doubleddie.com - error-ref.com - franklinlover.yolasite.com - ikegroup.info -lincolncentresource.com - maddieclashes.com - money.org - ngccoin.com/price-guide/world - ngccoin.com/census - ngccoin.com/resources/counterfeit-detection - nnp.wustl.edu - pcgs.com/pop - pcgs.com/coinfacts - pcgs.com/photograde - varietyvista.com - vamworld.com

      Comment

      • MintErrors
        Minterrors.org
        • Jun 2015
        • 3652

        #4
        Originally posted by occnumis2021 View Post

        are the restore/discard options not in place when a post isn't submitted but the page has been reloaded?

        some forum features have been changed/removed and i haven't checked if this one is still in place.


        Ive noticed the @nickname does not work. I tried to get my original post to say restore or discard and it never showed up. The temptation to do a forum lingers but..... the will power and laziness tips the scale into the "NAHHHH not right now" mode.

        Anyways, I like Mercury dimes. The only stalemate for me was the 1916D in a decent grade, like AU or higher, prices are insane. I can buy a boatload of Donuts (or Morgan Dollars) instead of that dime !

        I had to do a double take on this Merc. Its a 1942...my eyes shifted to the date. I had to make sure it was not a 1942/1.
        Gary Kozera
        Website: https://MintErrors.org

        Comment

        • Mercergrl2
          • Feb 2025
          • 24

          #5
          Originally posted by MintErrors View Post


          The forum ate my original reply to this.

          It looks like the issue started near the "I" in LIBERTY and travels south almost to the rim, ending near the "W" in WE.

          I believe its either:
          A scape of some sort.
          It could also be a slight staining, if it has some other color vice just dirt.

          It could be a very light lamination, but the look appears to be wrong to me. BUT, it does look the same across the "I" as it does landing on the flat field of the coin. If it looks almost like a peeling than scrape, it could be a lamination error. This does happen with silver coins some and more common on copper coins.

          It looks too light and straight to be a struck through grease or debris in my opinion.

          Circulated coins can be a challenge to give a good assessment. Its the wear, and endless possibilities of something happening outside the mint whether intentional or unintentional by some one else.

          I am currently on a tablet. I can't zoom in close enough to determine what this is, so I only can offer a few possibilities.

          I dont like being picky, but in the end I am always trying to help.

          The photo appears to have too much light, giving it that ghostly look.
          It can affect the clarity of the photo. When I see this when I am taking photos, I have to lower the light a tad. Otherwise, if I move the white sheer fabric just a touch, it can alter the photo or throw it out of focus.

          Lighting can be the number one pain to master in photography of coins. I ended up getting an AMSCOPE microscope years ago which has software that comes with the microscope camera. This offers settings to change the lighting before I take the photo to get as close to what I see under the scope.

          I will say your photos are better than some on here. I personally appreciate that. It makes offering my opinion easier.
          I’m sorry I don’t know how I missed that there was a response to this as I am just seeing this. Thank you again for taking the time not only to look but to educate. Much appreciated.

          Comment

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