1947 1 peseta

[Shleppodella1]

I've been doing some reading now this has got to be an error.

[occnumis2021]

looks like a titled die resulting in a die clash. the dies hit together pretty hard for that one.

ya, that falls into the error category.

[Shleppodella1]

Well thank you for that. May I ask how you deduced a tilted die please from them hitting each other which is the die clash correct? Is this what's called a MAD die clash because the space between dies wasn't properly adjusted so they what struck thru to the other side?

[MintErrors]

One important thing to remember is this is not the US Mint doing this. Their methods may be slightly different.

Working dies are flat pieces of metal. The images are squeezed into the die. With items sunk into the working dies, it's raised onto the coin.

When dies clash, it typically shows an outline of the design. If they strike extremely hard, it may shatter the dies. If you take a tracing paper, pit over the photo and draw just the outer area of the design all the way around. Then place that on the opposite side. Make sure the orientation is right. That should show a basic design for a clash. You would have to do each letter as well, if it is sunk into the flat field, separate from anything else.

OCC's comment about it being tilted slightly is probably due to only seeing the clas on the coin in specific region(s). The clash may have e been more evident if the dies were perfectly flat, allowing more of that design to show.

He knows best with what he was saying, I would also wait for a reply from him

If you look at the to of the head of the man on the coin and the look at the southern most area of the other side, it looks like a good fit for a clashed die. It's very limited area but again remember, this is from a foreign country and their standards of acceptance, tolerance, quality assurance may not necessarily be equal to US standards. Sure, US has had many issues with coinage, and that's OK too.

The European countries are some what known for their overdates. Anywhere from the 1600's to early 1900's, there is a wide selection available. You can see valid European errors on some of the better auction houses (I'd avoid E bay).The auction houses list, typically certify coins if in the USA or if raw clearly show the error and explain what happened to the coin if possible.

I have taken hundreds of photos of overdates in the past few years for a friend. He has purchased a lot more and we will be taking more photos and documenting what he has in the near future.

[Shleppodella1]

In your opinion would this be worthy of sending in? Don't it cost $60-$70 each to grade + original purchase price + estimated final youll recieve from grading then that value right determines if its worth it correct?

[occnumis2021]

Well thank you for that. May I ask how you deduced a tilted die please from them hitting each other which is the die clash correct? Is this what's called a MAD die clash because the space between dies wasn't properly adjusted so they what struck thru to the other side?

what he said above.

i'll only add, it behooves one to learn the minting process(es) if one is in numismatics and they aren't exactly the same from decade to decade, century to century and country to country.

M.A.D. refers to horizontal not vertical. (if that is not the case, i am unaware)

[MintErrors]

In your opinion would this be worthy of sending in? Don't it cost $60-$70 each to grade + original purchase price + estimated final youll recieve from grading then that value right determines if its worth it correct?

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It depends on the reasoning for sending it in. It's an individual choice, one that I do not get in the middle of. If it's for a return on investment, and your planning on selling it either now or in the future, one has to think how much it costs, coin plus slabbing and potentially mailing the coin to the buyer.

If it's to be kept and possibly handed down to some one else, if they see the holder with the proper destination on the coin it may help them understand what they have. They can then research the coin and get an idea what it is and what the value is.

Let's do a hypothetical cost. Let's use ANACS because it may be cheaper. Let's say this is the only coin. Unless you drop off the coin to a representing at a show, it might cost 8 usd to get it to ANACS. Then Let's say it costs 20 usd for the slabbing and ensuring the coin is authentic. The error fee may cost like 10 usd. Now wait 5 to 7 weeks. Depending on the owners value of the coin, you pay for insurance and postage. It will come back UPS ground, the cost is typically close to 25 usd. I think ANACS is cheaper than the other two major third party grading services. It depends on who likes what.

In the hypothetical arena, it would cost at least 62 usd to get it done. The grade of this foreign coin has to be taken into account, p,us how many were made, how many were sent in, and how the grading census or grading population is.

It boils down to a personal choice. It's costly to send coins in and seeing if the potential value is above that. Or it's simply a "I wanna do this" for whatever reason, and that's OK too.