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CONECA (pronounced: CŌ´NECA) is a national numismatic organization devoted to the education of error and variety coin collectors. CONECA focuses on many error and variety specialties, including doubled dies, Repunched mintmarks, multiple errors, clips, double strikes, off-metals and off-centers—just to name a few. In addition to its website, CONECA publishes an educational journal, The Errorscope, which is printed and mailed to members bimonthly. CONECA offers a lending library, examination, listing and attribution services; it holds annual meetings at major conventions (referred to as Errorama) around the country.

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Purchasing the right Microscope!

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  • #1

    Purchasing the right Microscope!

    I am interested in purchasing a microscope. I started off with a cheapo loupe, then progressed to a 1.3MP digital microscope camera that does 10x-50x variable, 200x static. I'm happy with this device, but the limited resolution makes it difficult to spot most of the newer varieties which are minor and the viewing distance is very short so I'm stuck with the built in radial LED lighting. I can actually see things much clearer on the cheapo loupe. That being said, I think I'm in the market for a decent microscope to perform my initial inspection.

    For those who have used or currently used a microscope for viewing coins, what features should I be looking for if I'm looking at used models? Does anyone have any recommendations for newer models that are a good value for coin evaluation?
    Tags: None
  • #2
    There are lots of different companies. Price varies with the quality of the optics. Some of the Chinese knock-offs are pretty good for a cheap price. The features you really want are as follows: continuous zoom capability; third (vertical) turret; boom stand for those extra large coins you have to stand on edge.
    Mike Diamond. Error coin writer and researcher.

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    • #3
      Here is a supplier for microscopes that I have used on a couple of occasions. As Mike suggests...there are many features you might want to consider depending on what you actually want to do. Take a look at this place, and if it doesn't have what you want, just Google microscopes!

      http://www.coinoptics.com/order/cat4.html
      Bob Piazza
      Lincoln Cent Attributer

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      • #4
        I like the idea of a boom based microscope for scenarios like you mentioned and so i can swing it off my desk when not needed.

        The trinocular / third turret is used when you want to throw a camera on there - right?

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        • #5
          Just to jump in on this thread, yes you are right about the camera being used with that third lens. However, I find it unnecessary and can shoot fairly good pictures through either of the other two optical.

          If you are thinking about a camera, take a look at the Cannon A720, an 8 mpixel with 6x optical zoom and it is for less than $200.00.

          BJ Neff
          Member of: ANA, CCC, CONECA, Fly-in-club, FUN, NLG & T.E.V.E.C.

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          • #6
            True, a third turret isn't necessary, it's just convenient for simultaneous examination and photography. It's also convenient for computer hookups and closed-circuit TV hookups. The extra turret costs more, of course.
            Mike Diamond. Error coin writer and researcher.

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            • #7
              I already have a Canon SD1000 and really like it so I'm hoping I can utilize that. I assume you need to purchase some sort of adapter to allow a camera to work with the scope?

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              • #8
                Bob - would that MP-613 have variable zoom or are you stuck with 10x?

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                • #9
                  Not really. I put the camera's lens house on the scope's lens house and shoot away.

                  BJ Neff
                  Member of: ANA, CCC, CONECA, Fly-in-club, FUN, NLG & T.E.V.E.C.

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                  • #10
                    I use a camera/microscope adapter from CoinOptics.
                    Mike Diamond. Error coin writer and researcher.

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                    • #11
                      I believe the light source is as important as the scope or camera when viewing die varieties. Incandescent light gives you a yellow appearance, and brown photos…I use an auxiliary halogen light, filtered through a white cloth sheet cover, very easy on the eyes, and photos look almost as natural as sun light.

                      Larry Nienaber

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                      • #12
                        SeattleMD,
                        I am not familiar with the MP613. The scope I use for taking photos for my site is a stereo zoom from 7.5 to 30X. Changes in the strength of the eye pieces will affect the magnification range as well. Definitely do your research though. These things can be very pricey, and if you plan on using it just for coins, too much magnification can be counterproductive. Just as important ill be your lighting. I use a fiber optic light box with dual goose neck fiber optic cables. As far as an adapter for taking pics without the 3rd turret...I was able to make an adapter from PVC pipe that fits my camera (Cannon Coolpix 7900) and the eye piece. As I mentioned below...if you Google "microscopes" there are plenty of choices.
                        Bob Piazza
                        Lincoln Cent Attributer

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                        • #13
                          'SCOPE LIGHTS AND SERENDIPITY

                          Originally posted by atrox001 View Post
                          I believe the light source is as important as the scope or camera when viewing die varieties. Incandescent light gives you a yellow appearance, and brown photos…I use an auxiliary halogen light, filtered through a white cloth sheet cover, very easy on the eyes, and photos look almost as natural as sun light.

                          Larry Nienaber
                          Larry, I'm barging to second your motion. My old Nikon Kool-Pix has good white balance and my subjects are Ikes where color is generally not important anyway, so I've worked my way through cheap and less cheap 'scope lights before finally landing on a relatively inexpensive Chinese Zeiss knock-off, a tri-head boom zoom that gave me all sorts of lighting flexibility. First light was halogen on a stalk and that was just too hot for my little working area. Then the cheapest LED ring light and that didn't have enough fire-power so finally a bigger LED ring light augmented by a double stalk LED for side-lighting.

                          What made a lot of my shooting really fun was a consequence of being half senile. . . I bought the big ring light from a different company than that which had supplied my 'scope and it didn't fit. Had to use hooks and elastic straps to hold the ring in place, but... but! I realized I could swivel the ring on the objective which expanded my lighting horizon considerably. I could adjust the angle of the ring lighting and that has made all the difference in bringing out some DD and MDD patterns. A toast to serendipity! Rob

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                          • #14
                            I could adjust the angle of the ring lighting and that has made all the difference in bringing out some DD and MDD patterns.
                            Rob...have you ever played around with tilting your subject? I found that using a 1/4 inch spacer, tilting the coin towards the light source makes a big difference. See attached photos of a quad spread taken flat, no tilt, and the same shot tilted.

                            Larry Nienaber
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              Larry, excellent clarification and neat photos!

                              Guess I better learn how to insert photos in these threads, LOL. . .

                              I take most of my "show off" or "display to maximum advantage" doubling photos holding the coin under the scope, slowly "wobbling" the coin until the very best image pops up.

                              But there are times when I want a more standardized process and the coin flat on the table so focus is ideal. Then slowly wobbling the ring light gives me some of the same flexibility.

                              Occasionally I jury-rig something to support a coin or a holder at an angle as a lot of double hub notches are angled and unless one is looking down at the notch it may not show to full advantage and maybe high-mag wants the coin supported and not hand-held. Rob

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