Another incused 42 nickel

[Shleppodella1]

This is the 2nd one that I have found now that has the ponytail and I guess lapel area with incused lines were they shouldn't be. Is this LDS?

[occnumis2021]

if you would follow the posts for a while, you will see this same stuff posted over and over. the same inquiries, over and over. really redundant but a good opportunity to learn by repetition for those wanting to learn.

pretty sure this is nothing more than die fatigue. when you see this, you should be able to see other signs on the coin from the dies having been pushed to their limits, either from long use or being ill made and having a short life.

i don't try to discourage posting but i like to see some people posting items that shows they are progressing, tbh.

nice images.

[Shleppodella1]

I have been trying to read all posts and I haven't really seen any with this particular issue in it. If you have PLEASE direct me I would love to read please.
I understand the LDS leaving the lines and mushyness in the device and inscription but how did the design but how did it get incused (dig in) because that's usually not that way. Am I confusing myself again and trying to hard?

[occnumis2021]

I have been trying to read all posts and I haven't really seen any with this particular issue in it. If you have PLEASE direct me I would love to read please.
I understand the LDS leaving the lines and mushyness in the device and inscription but how did the design but how did it get incused (dig in) because that's usually not that way. Am I confusing myself again and trying to hard?

i'm not saying i'm an expert at the understanding of this effect but as the dies press more coins, the die metal moves, that means out and up, which means down on the coins.

it helps a bit as i've seen various dies and die states. there are a LOT of dies out there in public hands for all kinds of coinage and not even all the usa ones are completely effaced.

mainly it is just looking at HUUUGE amounts of different coins and effects.

i'm not able to link other threads because people use VERY wonky and odd thread titles. you can do some general searches for like 1-2 years for posts that have images in certain forums and you can seriously scroll a LOT of images in a short time. one of the few features i like about this particular forum software.

[MintErrors]

I have been trying to read all posts and I haven't really seen any with this particular issue in it. If you have PLEASE direct me I would love to read please.
I understand the LDS leaving the lines and mushyness in the device and inscription but how did the design but how did it get incused (dig in) because that's usually not that way. Am I confusing myself again and trying to hard?

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In my opinion, it's a smattering of issues with this coin.

It's heavily circulated
It's a VLDS (vey late die stage) example
It's looks like the working die was aggressively abraded by the US Mint workers
The silver war nickel nickel area had a LOT of problems with lamination issues probably due to improper alloy mix.

People can try too hard to find something. For me, it's not about finding things, it's finding quality finds. There are a ton of very minor issues on coins that cost more in time then they are worth. Collecting errors and varieties becomes an art and a science adventure. MOST collectors like the drama coins and they have to be able to see it clearly under a loupe, more than likely between 10x to 15x magnification. MANY seasoned collectors avoid the errors and varieties that are super minor or awful common. They typically can find those on their own.

The boom of these newer Chinese portable microscopes is a double edged sword. One hand, we have renewed interest in the coin collecting hobby. On the other hand, we have people using the full extent of the magnification and finding what is normally a minute/very minor issue and posting it to the pile.

I have thought about doing a blog series on this subject, but just about everyone's experience is slightly different, especially when it comes to grade of the coin, and denomination.

No one has all the answers, I am sure there have been coins out there that have absolutely stumped the best collectors, exami ers and attributors on the planet.

Dissecting a coin by looking at it and logically thinking about why something looks like they way it does is super important. BUT, that either requires many years of examining coins or reading quality books that a collector can comprehend. Reference material in moderation is a good thing. If it's reference material that's in electronic format, it's even better and less bulky.

I suggest staying below 15x power and limit the amount of time spent above 80x magnification. Consider the error or variety before you post. Is it too minor/commonplace ? MANY of us have seen our fare share of BIEs, die chips, die cracks, machine doubling, and other common mint offerings.

People will be in multiple forums asking the same questions and getting the same answers. Yes, for some people I see what they posted on other forums and then seen the exact same photos on here and they get the same answer and cannot believe it. Those people need to trust the seasoned collectors. Asking for a second or third opinion is fine, sespecially if there in a wide variety of opinions.

I personally never consider any question not worth answering. Many people see the same offering over and over again like occnumis2021 mentioned and sometimes these minor or repetitive postings might go unanswered for quite some time.

It does not help collectors that the mint tightened down on the release of mint errors and varieties since 2003, and the great to good pickings are getting harder and harder to find.

Never feel that you should not post a coin or a question. It's an educational process that has been embraced for a long time. Some people just get their fill of answering the same thing too many times and avoid the question. But some one will come along eventually. Time and experience will eventually whittle out all of the white noise.

Happy hunting.

[occnumis2021]

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In my opinion, it's a smattering of issues with this coin.

It's heavily circulated
It's a VLDS (vey late die stage) example
It's looks like the working die was aggressively abraded by the US Mint workers
The silver war nickel nickel area had a LOT of problems with lamination issues probably due to improper alloy mix.
Happy hunting.

that is a good point about the abrading.

that usually is in the mix with other issues on mid to later die state coins.

one of the reasons to not really get TOO caught up with stuff like this other than a little understanding because it can be a combination of things, which usually doesn't add up to much of anything.

[Shleppodella1]

Well thank you again GENTLEMEN for that answer and "I shall put it to work". I've have a tendency to over analyze since childhood, which I thought happened here under to much magnification. I also see what you're referring to about the "common errors" (love the double negative pun)
i.e., die chips, cracks, delam, etc because in my little couple years now I'm starting to see alot of them and how they kinda loose their flare when "they are found", BUT NOT totally.

[279773]

Where can I Get a scope like yours

[279773]

[QUOTE=MintErrors;n111707]

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In my opinion, it's a smattering of issues with this coin.
It's heavily circulated
It's a VLDS (vey late die stage) example
It's looks like the working die was aggressively abraded by the US Mint workers
The silver war nickel nickel area had a LOT of problems with lamination issues probably due to improper alloy mix.

People can try too hard to find something. For me, it's not about finding things, it's finding quality finds. There are a ton of very minor issues on coins that cost more in time then they are worth. Collecting errors and varieties becomes an art and a science adventure. MOST collectors like the drama coins and they have to be able to see it clearly under a loupe, more than likely between 10x to 15x magnification. MANY seasoned collectors avoid the errors and varieties that are super minor or awful common. They typically can find those on their own.

The boom of these newer Chinese portable microscopes is a double edged sword. One hand, we have renewed interest in the coin collecting hobby. On the other hand, we have people using the full extent of the magnification and finding what is normally a minute/very minor issue and posting it to the pile.

I have thought about doing a blog series on this subject, but just about everyone's experience is slightly different, especially when it comes to grade of the coin, and denomination.

No one has all the answers, I am sure there have been coins out there that have absolutely stumped the best collectors, exami ers and attributors on the planet.

Dissecting a coin by looking at it and logically thinking about why something looks like they way it does is super important. BUT, that either requires many years of examining coins or reading quality books that a collector can comprehend. Reference material in moderation is a good thing. If it's reference material that's in electronic format, it's even better and less bulky.

I suggest staying below 15 I agree 100 percent

[Shleppodella1]

I hope I don't get in trouble for this post but you did ask about the scope. I bought it on Amazon for about $65 I believe. It has 4x zoom, picture software and SD card and can hookup to a seperate monitor if wanted. Like stated this might be too much scope.

[occnumis2021]

I hope I don't get in trouble for this post but you did ask about the scope. I bought it on Amazon for about $65 I believe. It has 4x zoom, picture software and SD card and can hookup to a seperate monitor if wanted. Like stated this might be too much scope.

not many agree with me but there is never too much zoom. rotfl - more importantly tho, is the effectiveness of the image(s) and quality. just because it is zoomed way in don't automatically make a good image. probably frustrating to those posting what they think are good close-ups only to hear the "pros" say the image isn't good enough but that also has to do with properly showing the features you are trying to show others.

here are some random close close-ups. not necessarily the best quality but imo, very effective to show specific features and lighting is at least half the battle. the just right angle, intensity etc. digital scopes will not have a lot of flexibility and image quality suffers greatly. best imo, to cover up its lights and provide your own that you can move around, height, distance from the lens of whatever your imaging with etc. move the lights around while looking through a screen to get an idea of what are the best positions for the lights and it can change for different coins.

The die chip below is from a Liberty Head "Barber" Dime affectionately known as "Q" variety.

2.jpg

The "CC" below is from a 1879-CC "capped" CC.

DSC_2496a.jpg
The "L" below is from Liberty on a Morgan dollar.

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The RPM below is from an 1882-O "O/S" Morgan Dollar

DSC_7584aa.jpg
The break below belongs to a 3 Cent Nickel and is a nice retained cud which has already developed a pretty major field shift.

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